The Marvelous Moab Milky Way

An artist’s rendition of our night photography location in Castle Valley near Moab Utah.

Taking pictures of the night sky has always been a solo enterprise for me.  There are few friends or partners willing to endure the long hours of dark cold nights.  I do not blame them; it is a crazy activity that few others share.  The closest I’ve found is our local astronomy club which hosts star parties to observe celestial objects, that can last all night.

But there are a few others as well:  landscape photographers who are looking to present more of the night than a view through a telescope.  They want to show the full scene, land and sky, and depict the magic feeling one has while viewing it at night.

I was thrilled to learn about the Nightscaper Photo Conference.  I had no idea that there were so many others out there doing what I have been doing. Enough that it makes sense to bring them together at a conference where they share their techniques and their images to educate and inspire each other.

I also learned that this community offers night photo workshops, where an instructor or two take small groups to photogenic dark sky locations and spend several nights shooting.  I would normally never join such a group, but after realizing that my superpowers for this activity were fading, and wanting to remain safe in the remote locations I like to visit, I decided to subscribe to one.  I signed up for the Moab, Utah workshop hosted by a small company of nightscaper photographers, “National Parks at Night”.

I wasn’t sure how it would go.  Having done this on my own all these years and resenting any intrusion by other humans into my scene space, I thought we might get in each other’s way.  This turned out to be not a problem, because these humans were all cooperative, and considerate.  All of us were after the same thing, and there was plenty of room to spread out and do it.  Yes, there were occasional unintentional light trespasses, but they were always forgiven.  A small cost for the comfort of being in a supportive group.

I will have more to say about my workshop experience.  But for now, I want to convey that it was a great success—I was able to take pictures from wonderful sites, enjoy the safety and security of being in a group, and to get one of my best shots of the Milky Way ever!

Not every night was ideal.  Clouds persisted the first night, and haze intruded the third.  But this is part of the mystique.  We can place ourselves at the right time and location, but the weather will be what it will be.  It can be disappointing and discouraging, but I encountered a new way of thinking about this at the conference.  Ken Lee, who presented a strategy for maintaining a photographer’s creative spark, advised us to pack the gear and just go out.  It might not result in that next great shot; you might not even unload the gear, but “you have already won!”  You are out under the night skies, taking it in.  Enjoy it, savor it.  Anything more is bonus material.  

On the nights of the workshop, as the twilight faded to reveal a canopy of stars and as we anticipated the rising of the Milky Way, and even before I had taken my first exposures, I thought, “I have already won!”   And that is the feeling I’d like to capture in my pictures.

I will eventually create a timelapse, but here is a frame from my exposures that night.  

Near Ida Gulch, Castle Valley, Moab Utah. Click to enlarge (it’s worth it).

AI Double Agent?

Image generated via Gemini/Nano Banana 2, then “optically corrected” by author-driven Photoshop.

Artificial intelligence is being used everywhere by everybody it seems.  I’ve had limited experience.  I don’t use it professionally (hey, I’m retired), but I have used it in some of my activities, and recently I have been taking advantage of the Google AI search results, which does a nice job of compiling a summary for topics that otherwise generate too many diverse links.  

If you follow the invitation to “Dive Deeper”, an entire conversation with the AI agent will begin.  If you ask a follow-up question, you will get a thoughtful and informative response, further focusing on the aspect of the subject.  It (the agent, referred to as Gemini) will even suggest more things it can help with, though I usually have my own follow-up questions.  As the conversation continues, it will remember little details I have provided, and factor them in to customize and “personalize” each next response.

I find it both amazing and amusing.  And sometimes baffling.  I am amazed at how well it can construct a summary of a topic and provide references.  It makes for a good tutor on a new subject.  And the references save lots of time from manually looking them up via a regular Google search, which is very sensitive to the exact search terms, and provides an unsorted (except by page-rank and sponsorship) list of links.  Gemini, on the other hand, will organize and structure the information into tables and provide step-by-step instructions for achieving your objective.

I am amused at the “tone” of the responses from Gemini.  It has a distinct demeanor.  I find it a combination of neutral, confident, and tutorial.  Google wants it to be seen as a “helpful knowledgeable friend”.  It mostly succeeds.

But I am baffled by some of the responses it has provided.  Amidst an abundance of helpful information, there will be statements (provided with the utmost confidence) that are completely wrong, sometimes exactly the opposite of what was requested.  Here are three recent examples.

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Zodiacs!

“Zodiac” is a trade name for the small boats made by the original manufacturer, Zodiac Nautic, but it has become a generic reference for inflatable boats of this type.  Ocean Victory has a corral of twenty such boats (from Zodiac-Milpro, the military/professional division of the company).

The management of passengers onto and off of these crafts is no small matter.  We were given detailed training instructions on how to step into and off of them from the “mudroom” deck only a few feet above sea level.  We were taught the “seaman’s grasp”, a double handlock with the crewperson assisting us on and off the Zodiac.  There were strict rules about how and where to sit on the rubber pontoons.  No standing without permission.

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Antarctica!

We venture out into an ice-filled bay.

Barrientos in the South Shetland Islands was a bonus stop, one which was possible because of our smooth transit of the Drake Passage.  And if the weather was favorable now, but uncertain later, the expedition crew wanted to make sure that their passengers would have at least one landing experience on this tour.

The good weather held, and our next stop was to the actual Antarctic Peninsula at Foyn Harbor and Portal Point.  We could finally say that we had set foot on the seventh continent.

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The Dreaded Drake Shake

Screenshot from windy.com, a site that makes predictions of the wind speeds and wave heights. We were most interested in the area between Tierra del Fuego and the Antarctic Peninsula.

Among the other things about which the tour operators cautioned lowered expectations, was the ease of crossing the Southern Ocean, a notoriously challenging passage famous for foul weather and high seas.  The 1000 kilometers between Argentina and the Antarctic Peninsula is known as the Drake Passage.  We had heard rumors of the tour that had immediately preceded us:  the wind and waves were so extreme that they had to abandon their planned route to Antarctica and instead travel to the Falkland Islands.  Their tour featured many Antarctic-like things, including Emperor Penguins (which we would not encounter), but it was not Antarctica.  And I don’t think anyone’s travel insurance would cover that distinction.

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Getting to the Start (from the End of the World)

The harbor at Ushuaia Argentina, with tour ships preparing for their next voyage. These are “expedition class” ships capable of navigating the icy waters of Antarctica..

The heart of the Road Scholar Antarctica tour is a 9-day voyage on an “Expedition Class” ship, the Ocean Victory.  The ship’s schedule is fixed; when it departs the dock, there is no taxi or flight to catch it at the next stop– “that ship has sailed”.

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To Fin del Mundo and Beyond!

I have written about my visit to the “Top of the World Store”, and now I get to write about visiting the “End of the World”, which is what the town of Ushuaia in Argentina calls itself (Fin del Mundo).  And beyond the end of the world lies… Antarctica!

I have lobbied to see the seventh continent for a few years now, and after testimonials from friends who have taken that trip, Poldi showed some interest.  It is not natural for her;  she’d rather go someplace warm in the midst of our Minnesota winter, not to an ice-covered land populated by penguins.  But she will sometimes admit regret at not joining me on an aurora viewing tour in northern Sweden because of concern about the subzero temperatures.  It turned out that it was subzero Centigrade, not Fahrenheit, a big difference.

And the same was true in Antarctica.  The weather would feature the summer temperatures of the southern hemisphere, a time when wildlife returns to feed on the rich nutrition of the Southern Ocean.  Seabirds and sea mammals are abundant, the ice is melting, and outlandishly shaped icebergs provide landing zones for them.

It is an expensive trip and I later learned why (keep reading).  And unlike during grade school when I first learned about Antarctica, and when only research scientists could travel there, we now have a choice of tour operators that cater to sufficiently adventurous travelers.  They are not all equivalent however, and we encountered communication difficulties with the first company we approached to book a trip.  Considering it a red flag, we shifted to the group we had had a very positive experience with for our tour of the Baja Peninsula.  Road Scholar is a nonprofit organization that caters to “lifelong learners”, people who would rather listen to a lecture than go shopping at the tourist malls.  Perhaps it is not surprising that their clientele skew older (mostly above 50).  This is ok with us, and in fact, this self-selected demographic fits us just fine.

Their prices were higher, but having had one positive experience with them, and considering the overall uncertainty of this particular tour destination, we signed up.  We were not disappointed.  They were responsive to all of our questions and accommodating to our schedule (we had travel days of our own before and after their itinerary).  They took care of us throughout.

I will be making a few travelogue-type blog posts about this trip and offer a few photos. I hope you enjoy them.


Flamenco Memories

An artifact I have saved from my days sharing a house with a musician whose day job (actually night job) was at Shinders.

It was date night, and we had reservations at Guavas, a nearby Cuban restaurant that promoted a date-night special that included paella, sangria, and live music!  Since it was January, we brought in an unwelcome blast of cold air as we entered, but it was soon absorbed into the warm and cozy atmosphere of the cafe.  

A corner of the space had a small wooden platform where a musician was plugging in amplifiers and tuning his instrument.  Even though we had reservations, the tables were fully occupied.  The host assured us that several would open up soon; the previous walk-in guests had been informed that they could not remain into date-night-protected time slots.

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Tenaya Lake, by Ansel Adams

Tenaya Lake, Mount Conness, Yosemite National Park, by Ansel Adams.

My dad’s younger brothers were favored uncles; they were grown-ups, yes, but they were fun.  Bob, the youngest, was only a half-generation away from me. After spending a year in Viet Nam with the Navy, Bob had returned to Alameda California in 1972 to complete his service.   He arranged for my brother Eric and me to spend time visiting him there during our spring break.  The week with him was quite an adventure for us teenagers.  It left a strong impression of California culture and provided an intimate look into the life of a highly regarded adult.  We met the wonderful woman who would become our Aunt Karen.  They planned to wed in June later that year. 

Their wedding became a focus for the summer, and my dad arranged a complex family summer vacation to attend this event.  We numbered seven, and were no longer small enough to all fit into our Volkswagen bug as we once had.  Nor could we fit in the large Pontiac Bonneville, later known as the Great White Whale, especially since we were bringing camping gear for Dad’s planned post-wedding vacation activity:  backpacking through Yosemite Park.  So both vehicles were recruited for the cause.  We had four licensed drivers in our clan and could tag-team the drive to California and back.

I described this backpacking adventure in a previous post. After that memorable experience, we continued by exploring Yosemite Valley. In addition to the famous views of Half Dome and El Capitan, there were art galleries!  Yosemite was the adopted home of a number of artists, including photographer Ansel Adams, who had a studio and school here.  Many of his images were on display and available for sale.

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Yosemite Breakdown

Ready for a road trip to California in 1972

In 1972 our family went on a road trip to California.  It was to attend my uncle’s wedding.  Having just completed his service as a medical officer in the Navy, he was marrying a California girl from a well-known family.  I had to look up the word debutante.  

The wedding served as an excuse for my dad to extend our travel to California for his brother’s wedding, by adding on a backpacking trip to one of the premier wilderness areas in the world—Yosemite National Park.  He had become fascinated with hiking backcountry trails ever since some backpackers emerged from the forested slopes of Glacier Park into a clearing —a roadside stop where our family was, at that moment, enjoying the amazing view.  We noticed them from within our rented Dodge “motor home”, an early incarnation of what today is the ubiquitous recreational vehicle.  As we watched the hikers organize themselves for the next leg of their backcountry journey, I remember Dad’s respect and curiosity about them.  Clearly, the backpackers made a strong impression.

In the following years, Dad took each of his kids in turn on a backpacking trip to teach, and to learn further for himself, the techniques and pleasures of hiking in remote, beautiful settings with nothing more than what you carry on your back.

And now he was ready to go on a backpacking trip with the entire family.  This time he needed to be more nimble and have more flexibility than a giant RV could offer.  And now that more family members were licensed to drive, we would take both of the family cars:  a high-capacity Pontiac Bonneville, later referred to as “the White Whale”, and the compact, but near-indestructible Volkswagen Beetle, which had survived numerous stick shift training sessions of young drivers.

I think this is a picture of us in front of the Bonneville, with the Bug showing slightly in the foreground, perhaps as they are being loaded.  The fashion styles of the day are clearly displayed.

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