A Tourist Visits the Statue of Liberty

I had been to New York City a few times in my life.  Each was somewhat accidental: a business trip, a delivery of childhood possessions to children who had grown, and a trip to witness a career accomplishment (a film festival screening) of one of them.  Each had a primary purpose, and there was inadequate time to explore the vast experiences that New York City offers.  I was not able to be a sightseeing tourist.

This occasion was different.  There was no preset agenda or itinerary; we were taking the opportunity to spend a few days with Poldi’s son Shal’s family living in Brooklyn before beginning our travels to Europe.  Poldi asked me if there was anything I’d like to do while we were visiting.  

Well, I was always curious about the structure and construction of the world’s tallest sculpture (for a hundred years), the Statue of Liberty.  Could I climb the spiral staircase inside?

Despite having lived in New York since attending film school twenty years ago, Shal had never visited the famous landmark.  This sounded like a great outing to him.  Since there were tourist ferries every twenty minutes to it, we could just show up at the dock and tag along.  

It turns out that it is not as simple as catching a subway train, and we had to pre-register for a position on the ferry.  Security checks were involved before boarding.  And if you wanted to go on the tour of its interior, sign up a month ahead.  I would not get in this trip (probably for the better, based on the claustrophobia I might suffer).

It was a wonderful experience.  Liberty Island is as beautiful as the sculpture it hosts.  I have pictures of it in this album of our New York City segment of this trip.


Valley of Dreams, Part 2:  A Night under the Alien Throne

“Mushroom Row,” at the edge of the sandstone theater that hosts the Alien Throne.

Having performed my reconnaissance by visiting the Alien Throne during the day, I was now ready to consider taking its portrait at night.  I had in mind a view that included the Milky Way.  And I wondered if I could create a timelapse of our galaxy moving across the sky behind it.  It would require planning, equipment, and a bit of luck.  A target 1-1/2 hours away from our hotel in Farmington, a further 1-1/2 mile trek across the desert, and an all-night vigil tending cameras, made this one of my most ambitious photo projects.

I had a backpack into which I put my gear:  essentials like navigation tools, raingear and first aid, fleece, hat and gloves for overnight temperatures, a sleeping bag for further warmth (and option for sleeping), some snacks, plenty of water, and then the real payload:  20 pounds of camera equipment, which brought the total close to 40.  For a single overnight trip, it felt as if I was going out for a week.

My planning [using the PlanitPro app] informed me that sunset would be at 8:20.  I wanted to be at the site well before so I could set up and arrange my compositions, and also to capture the scenery in the “beauty light” that precedes sunset.

I got to the trailhead later than expected because I’m not immune from wrong turns, even when I “know” where I’m going.  And the desert hike also took longer (was it the heavy pack?).  The terrain tricked me into some dead ends.  But I arrived at the Alien Throne just before sunset.  It was spectacular!

And I was alone.  I had feared that I would encounter other photographers with the same idea, but it looked like I would not have to negotiate camera positions, something I had never needed to do.  So I went ahead and placed my tripods, aimed my lenses, set the exposure and interval timers, and started the shutters clicking.  It takes a bit of time and concentration, but this is the pleasure of the hobby for me.  Every outing is a new experiment;  I add the details of each to my notebook, which then helps me on the next one.

With the cameras now clicking away on their schedules, I could step back and breathe a little easier.  I found a niche among the rock formations to set my pack and recline against it.  Twilight was advancing, and as I was recording my notes, I noticed lights splashing against the rock formations.  Someone was hiking here in the dark, a headlamp lighting the way!  

Rather than have them stumble across me in the dark, I called out, “hello?”

A voice replied, and a lone hiker arrived in the sandstone theater around the Alien Throne that hosted my cameras and my nesting place.  

As I mentioned, I prefer to be alone during my nighttime star gazing excursions.  If I see headlights approaching, I worry about what that vehicle brings.  Often, it is a patrol car whose occupants either want to see your permit, or they want to look at Jupiter through your telescope.  Though I am more fearful of wild carnivores than humans, I understand why women might prefer to encounter a bear than a man.

In this case, it was a student, recently graduated from UCLA, exploring the country before returning to his home in China.  He had acquired a camera and discovered the cool startrail effects that could be obtained at night in unique settings like the one we were now both immersed in.  It was a shared interest.

We exchanged introductions while he found a location for his tripod and camera.  We had similar equipment, even identical travel tripods.  Because my cameras were already in place and running, he found a location for his that did not interfere.  It was an act of respect for the compositional claims that I had already staked, but also, I think, a reflection of his Asian culture of honoring and deferring to elders.  I was pleased, perhaps even flattered, at the respect.  There are few perks to being a septuagenarian; this was one of them.

My plans involved keeping my cameras in place and running all night.  I needed to make some tracking adjustments and periodically replace batteries.  His plans were to gather an hour or so of exposure in one place, and then move to a new location with a new subject and new backdrop.  It all worked out with little or no interference.  Between camera moves, we chatted and exchanged information from across our generations, homes, and cultures. 

As the desert cooled down, we took refuge.  I climbed into my sleeping bag, and he found enough surface area to pitch a small tent.  I faced the open sky and watched the young moon set, the stars drift past, and the Milky Way rise from the east.  “Sleeping under the stars” is a romantic notion, and a rare opportunity in modernity’s protected life.  It is not easy to do in my midwestern home, where the sky is often cloudy and the air is filled with insects, but here in the desert, it is a wondrous experience.

The night passed pleasantly by, in 90 minute segments, per my alarms to get up and attend the cameras.  In this remote location far from city lights, the sky transitioned from one of the darkest possible, to the natural progression of twilight leading toward sunrise.  The Milky Way faded into the brightening sky.  My startrail and timelapse work was now complete, but I wanted to see the hoodoos in the morning sunlight.  I was not disappointed.

As I started packing up my gear for the trek back, my fellow photographer brought out another of his gadgets: a drone, which he sent overhead to capture stunning views of the terrain in which we were immersed.  I think this is technically not permitted in a BLM wilderness area, but I couldn’t deny how cool it was, and no one else seemed to be around to complain.

I finally said goodbye to my overnight companion.  We exchanged email addresses, and I hope to share photos with him.  I then hoisted my pack and headed back.  The water weight had diminished, and I admired the morning light on the unique desert features.  I was exhausted, making the night’s experience all the more valuable.

Here are some photos from that beautiful night. The first set was taken during daylight, the next from my nighttime exposures. Finally, I offer the timelapse video composited from the frames I acquired. I hope you enjoy them.



A link to the timelapse sequence. Enlarge to full screen for the full visual experience.

Valley of Dreams, Part 1: Finding It

The American Southwest is an amazing, mysterious, and visually stunning place. I’ve had a fascination with it my whole life, and make excursions whenever an opportunity arises.  A few years ago, Poldi and I discovered an area in New Mexico with remarkable geologic features:  badlands, hoodoos, and petrified wood!  It was the Bisti Wilderness Area, held apart from private and reservation land by the Bureau of Land Management for the benefit of the public.  It is only very lightly “managed” by the BLM.  There are no visitor centers, no picnic areas or campgrounds, and no trails.  There is a small parking area at the end of a difficult dirt road, marked by a signpost and featuring an outhouse.  

Despite the lack of trails, we were able to follow the breadcrumb descriptions posted online by a photographer who explores Bisti for its photogenic subjects.  We located and visited the Alien Egg hatchery, a 30-foot-long petrified log, and a hoodoo village.  In the years since, we have wanted to return and explore more of this fascinating area.

We were able to do so this year.  The timing was right—late Spring, before the desert becomes intolerably hot.  We both researched and found several more sites with novel features bearing names like “King of Wings”, “Chocolate Penguin King”, and “Alien Throne”.  These are not roadside points of interest with explanatory markers; they are deep in wilderness area, accessible to intrepid hikers willing to explore the desert and locate them.  Those that are successful bring back stunning photographs.

Those photographs inspired us to consider visiting them.  A particularly novel feature, “The Alien Throne”, made me wonder if I could get a picture of it with a night sky backdrop.  I read the accounts of others who had made the trip.  Maybe it was possible!

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Bill Glass is Gone

Bill Glass and I participate in a welcome ritual for tourist visitors to Kenya, 2013.

Hard to believe.  A man who was larger than life in our circle of friends and coworkers is gone.  He was regarded as a wizard in our particular cohort of engineers, enabling computers to perform powerful tasks beyond everyone’s expectations.  He was among the pioneers of computer graphics, a key contributor to a technology that garnered an Academy Award for motion picture special effects.  If, in our work, we encountered an insoluble problem, it was assigned to Bill.  Which he then solved.

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Open Pits and Bathtubs

I had to agree that it was an unusual gas station. 

It looked like an airport control tower with a cantilevered roof that protected the customers at the gas pumps – protection from rain and sun that is common today but in 1978, and certainly 20 years earlier when built, it was novel.  The pumps were fueling the local cars:  a mix of old gas guzzlers and newer more fuel-efficient models that were a response to the oil embargos of the 70s.

We were on the way to our business destination—the US Steel mine near Mountain Iron Minnesota, a town slowly being eaten up by the open pit mine as it followed the deposits of diffuse iron known as taconite.

I was the passenger in Steve Haverberg’s VW microbus.  Steve was familiar with the area and knew I would enjoy seeing a gas station that had been designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.  We needed gas anyway and it was a good time to stop and stretch. 

Another vehicle was also on its way to the mine, but had taken a more direct route.  It was equipped with a 4-foot long cylindrical probe, to be lowered by cable into a drill hole.  A custom-built instrument specialized for detecting iron ore was also in that truck.

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Eyewitness to Climate Change

A hiking group finds its way across Grinnell Glacier in 1970.

Most people now acknowledge that the climate has changed, even if they don’t agree on the reasons for it.  Some of us are old enough to have seen the change firsthand.

As a teenager in 1970, I went on a hike with my family in Glacier National Park, a six-mile and 2000 foot climb to Grinnell Glacier.  It was a thrilling experience to be hiking in the mountains, and then to actually walk out onto a real glacier!  Both mountains and glaciers were things I had read about, but never personally experienced. 

It was a ranger-led hike, and I learned a lot from the ranger’s descriptions of the geology, the plant and animal life, and the nature of glaciers, for which this park was named.  I remember him telling us that the glaciers were shrinking.  Nobody knew why, but it was possible that in a century they would all be gone.  The park would still be called “Glacier”, but for the characteristic and beautiful glacier-cut valleys, not for the presence of glaciers themselves.

I have since had the opportunity to visit a few other glaciers including Sperry Glacier, also in Glacier Park, and the Athabasca Glacier, part of the Columbia Ice Fields of Banff National Park in Alberta Canada.  Of course, whenever I have made these excursions, I have taken pictures, which have remained sequestered away in old photo albums or shoeboxes.

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The Binning Mosaic Mural

We discover the Binning mural in the upper floor of a drug store.

Poldi was not done with her “hidden treasures of Vancouver” list. The next one would take some sleuthing to locate. It was another architectural feature, this time a large mural crafted from Italian glass tiles that had been commissioned in the 1950s for the Imperial Bank of Canada to adorn the vast banking teller hall of their new building. The bank has long since moved out of the building and the magnificent space currently is being used by a drug store. Poldi knew the name of the drug store (“Shoppers Drug Mart”) but not its location, and this was a chain of stores that had many outlets.

Our inquiries at the hotel concierge desk were met with quizzical looks. No one seemed to know about the Binnings mosaic mural. B. C. Binning was a highly regarded artist in his day, but is not as well known now. But they could help locate the right store by making calls to each, and asking if their store had a mural in it. This didn’t really work. Everyone who answered seemed unaware of any mural.

So we decided to embark on our version of the traveling salesman problem. We would visit the nearby Shoppers Drug Mart stores (there were three or four within walking distance) and look for ourselves.

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The Vancouver Marine Building

An art deco overhead lighting fixture featuring shipping and ocean themes.

I am not the only one who enjoys encountering unique examples of architecture. I was accompanied in my quest to find the Harvard Biology Building with its intriguing doors, sculpted façades, and anatomically exact statues of rhinoceroses, by my (newly married) wife Poldi. That was the culmination of a scavenger hunt to locate a novel architectural feature that had been captured in an old photograph my grandfather had taken, soon after the building had been inaugurated. We really enjoyed the experience.

Recently, Poldi, while planning a trip that would take us through Vancouver British Columbia, learned of another unique building, built at about the same time. Our destination was Banff, but we had a day before our train’s departure, to explore this famous port city of western Canada. She encountered references to the “Marine Building”, an art deco monument completed in 1930. At the time, it was the tallest building in the city (22 stories), and it was intended to be a grand statement of the value of Vancouver, especially its importance as a major seaport. They thought of it as their version of the mighty Chrysler building in New York City, completed earlier that same year.

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Eclipse Party 2024– cloud coverup

Eclipse dress rehearsal in my back yard.

When I was first learning astrophotography, I had the bad luck of beginner’s luck. I got an early good result, a picture of the Andromeda Galaxy, and then spent years discovering all the things that can go wrong with this technical hobby.

The equipment has improved immensely since those days of making long duration, manually guided exposures onto film, but the opportunities for fatal mistakes has not seemed to diminish, and the challenges of solar imaging are no less demanding than those of deep sky imaging– just different.

So I knew that I needed to practice my plan to photograph the solar eclipse. There were too many things that all needed to go right, and too many opportunities to make a mistake.

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Eclipse Party 2024- eclipse day!

Our group consumes coffee! Five French presses were hard pressed to keep up.

Eclipse Monday arrived and we proceeded as planned.  Delicious French-pressed coffee and cinnamon rolls greeted our eclipse party guests, but the sky was covered in intermittent clouds, a mix of high and low layers, only occasionally offering a clear sunny view.  

This did not seem to affect the group.  They proceeded to continue their exploration of the campground and vicinity, logging birdcalls and trekking new hiking trails.

By the time the eclipse started, a little past noon, we all convened at our observing site.  Cabin H, it turns out, is the only cabin at Zuber’s that had a full view of Old Baldy, and it provided us with a perfect open area in front to view the eclipsed sun!

I had completed the setup of my cameras (more on this later).  In principle, they were automated enough that I could relax and enjoy the show with my friends.  I looked around and saw that our full group of black t-shirted eclipse observers had positioned their camp chairs to claim their personal view of the sky, making guesses about the sun’s location as it occasionally peeked through the clouds.  Some had binoculars, properly filtered of course, and their punched name cards were near at hand.

Over on top of Old Baldy we could see the silhouettes of many people who had climbed it– to get a closer look, I guess.  When they started striking odd poses and making wild gestures, I realized this was the gathering spot for the Wiccans and Druids.  And sure enough, whenever the clouds presented an opening that showed a partially eclipsed sun, they could be heard whooping and hollering at it!

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